January 30, 2023

Cold Weather Hot Pot - Happy Lamb on Westheimer

 (Note: several locations for Happy Lamb in Houston)


Cold Weather Hot Pot.

We sometimes forget how good hot soup can be during the short period of cold Houston days that we have. Many places to choose from. Today, a venture to the Happy Lamb Hot Pot on Westheimer. A bargain at $25 per person. The two of us had three meats, plus all the seafood options, plus the vegetables and noodles. We never got tackle the third meat choice (chicken) because we were so full. And we learned quickly that our eyes were bigger than our stomachs. So go gently through that line of seafood. Highly recommended.

Here is a good trick to remember. When you get the glass noodles, don't drop them into the broth right away. Allow the broth to develop its flavor profile after cooking the meat and vegetables fully. Then, use the slotted spoon to remove the "debris", that is, the chillies, and other dry ingredients that came in the broth. If you don't do this, the noodles will get tangled up with the chillies and be difficult to separate.

Today I had the pleasure to take a friend who had never experienced hot pot. She loved it. Hot Pot 101.

An Asian friend of mine once remarked that, growing up, the kids HATED when their parents planned for a hot pot get together as they knew they'd be stuck at a restaurant with the grown-ups for HOURS lol.

Here are some photos. The last two are from the Happy Lamb website.
















January 29, 2023

Mexican Breakfast - Cucharita

Could this be the best chicken and vegetable soup in Houston? And the best mole tamal in Houston?
I’m beginning to think so. Yep. They are imho.
I had an opportunity today to pop in to the new Cucharita, on Fairview, for breakfast for the first time and because I am not big on eggs I defaulted to the caldo/soup and a mole tamal. Both were so good and I am already dreaming about coming back again for another tasting. The tamal was the bigger, CDMX style that I love. The “ambiente” here, is wonderful.
And it really did remind me of hanging out at a place in the Roma neighborhood of CDMX.
They have an extensive surtido/selection of breakfast breads, and pastries. You can skip the coffee in my opinion, because it is roasted dark (unless that is your thing).
But the soup and the tamal…Oh my.
I left with a big smile on my face.
A tip of the hat to Ana Beaven for a job well done.
If you go, please report back on the other breakfast offerings.









January 26, 2023

Gumbo in Houston - A Work in Progress

 

















Gumbo recipes are like fingerprints. No two are exactly alike. But, “ no roux, no gumbo.” There has to be a roux.

My personal preference is for a dark roux. If you don’t get your roux dark enough, you’re missing out on some deep, toasted flavors. Shocking the trinity in the super hot roux starts the caramelization process.

Gumbo is translated from  West African words for okra (kingombo or quingombo). But I’ve noticed very little use of okra in the gumbos that I’ve been sampling.

Beginning in February of 2022, I began sampling gumbo at restaurants around town. Some were not great. Some were good enough. And some would warrant a return visit.


First off, the ones that I did not like.

Acme Oyster and Seafood. The first time I sampled it, there wasn't any seafood to speak of in it. Just a mediocre, lukewarm gumbo broth. The second time, pretty much the same experience. Not recommended.

Eugene's Gulf Coast Cuisine. The day I went the chicken in the gumbo had that warmed over flavor profile that comes from refrigerating chicken and bringing it out of the fridge the next or subsequent days. 

Eunice Restaurant. The chicken was so heavily smoky that this became a one note gumbo. Smoky chicken.

Goode Company Seafood. A thick, flour-y gumbo broth that was really unpleasant. See roux comments under "Flying Fish".

State Fare Kitchen on I-10. I sat at the bar and ordered the gumbo. The bartender said "let me bring you a sample first to taste as some people think it is too dark." Well, I LOVE a good gumbo where the roux has blackened sufficiently. It shows the chef has the necessary skills. In this case, it wasn't a dark roux. It was a burned roux. And I was so grateful that I got to do a taste test first. Big tip to the bartender that day.

Flying Fish on Durham. I really wanted to like the gumbo here because they are local to the Heights. When you make a roux, that hot oil breaks down the glutenin and gliadin, the two proteins that form the gluten web when liquid is added. So the flour loses its thickening ability as it develops for the nutty roux flavor we all love. Although the roux here was dark, the gumbo had this thick flour paste feel and taste to it that was very unpleasant. There was a nice amount of sausage and shrimp but I couldn't get past that flour paste consistency. Same problem that I had with Goode Company Seafood.

Alfreda's. I remember not liking this one bit. Can't remember if it was because it was really greasy (but not in a good way like at Viola and Agnes) or that the spicing was just unbalanced. I seem to remember thinking "clueless kitchen".

Joe's Deli on Winkler on the East Side. More like a gumbo porridge. Cheap sausage, with a texture more like Vienna sausages. Broken up bits of rice cooked down in the gumbo. 

Esther’s Cajun on N Shepherd. Piled high with meat and fixins’ but very little broth. It wasn’t a favorite. I took it home, added two cups of water to thin it out and create a broth. While I finished it completely, I can’t imagine going back for it again.

 Willie's Bar and Grill off of 290. Come here for the burgers and onion rings but not the gumbo. I have to qualify by saying that I finished the bowl. But they dump too much worcestershire sauce into it and that is all you taste. Was it a goof on one particular day? I don't know as I haven't gone back for a second test.

And now, on to some gumbos that I liked.

1929 Po-Boy Cajun Kitchen inthe Lyric Market food hall on Smith.. For me, this is about as good as it gets.

Viola and Agnes on NASA Road 1. Still my favorite. The chef is from Lake Charles. The gumbo is really rich, with a layer of spicy oil on top, and includes a crab claw and a chicken drumstick. This is a place I would take out of towners as I pretty much like everything on the menu.  (http://www.houstonfoodexplorers.com/2021/07/gumbo-viola-agnes-nasa-road-1-in-clear.html )

Christie’s Seafood on Westheimer.. For me, this is about as good as it gets. It is the style of gumbo I like best. Dark roux. Thinner broth. Lots of flavor. Shrimp added at the last moment so as not to cook down.

Gatlin’s Fins and Feathers on Crosstimbers. While their fried chicken was “good enough” but saltier than I like, I enjoyed their gumbo a lot. I would go back for the gumbo.

Bayou City Seafood on Richmond. I liked this gumbo a lot and it was one of the true bargains for the price. Big shrimp. Real seafood. I've been back three times now.

Zydeco Restaurant in downtown Houston. I ordered both a seafood gumbo and a chicken and sausage gumbo. The steam table looked really sad, but the gumbo. These were the simple but well prepared gumbos that I could eat every day. Actually, I had planned to just have a taste of each bowl and take the rest home. But spoonful followed spoonful and I burned through both bowls. And the jalapeño cornbread was tasty, too. Now, they had jars of Kary's Dark Roux for sale. I'm not sure if they make their own or just use the jar roux. 

Le Pam's House of Creole out on 1960. Very Louisiana. Very home cookin'. I liked the way the gumbo came together as it was ordered. Some roux and broth. Add some seafood. Heat it up. Tasty gumbo for sure. One thing that I suspect, though I'm not 100% sure...unlike every other gumbo I've tried, the Le Pam gumbo seemed to have a hint of Zatarain or Louisiana Foods crab boil liquid in it. 

7 Spice Cajun Seafood (right across the street from Le Pam's, and, I see that there is now one on Westheimer also). Funny that I did two places in one day. I suspect the gumbo at 7 Spice is more "chain restaurant", might have been where they just opened a jar of roux, etc. But you know, something about it, I kinda liked it just as much as Le Pam's. Go figure.

Grace's on Kirby had a decent gumbo that I would order again.

Lucille's. They feature a gumbo z'herbes, which I always thought was a meatless gumbo for Lent made with 9 kinds of greens. But theirs had meats in it and I've since learned that this is not out of the ordinary in the world of Louisiana gumbo. Online, I've seen a bunch of recipes for this type of gumbo that include ham hock or other types of meat. (the Leah Chase recipe has chorizo, sausage, brisket, etc. for example : https://www.southernliving.com/recipes/leah-chase-gumbo-z-herbes) It was a tasty gumbo.

Little Daddy's Gumbo Bar. In Galveston and also in League City. I've always liked their gumbo and enjoy getting a bowl when I am out that way.

Saigon House. The Vietnamese restaurant of chef Tony Nguyen, located out on 1960 (aka Cypress Creek Parkway). And a mile or so from Le Pam's and 7 Spice. A gumbo that I really enjoyed. Some comments from others indicate it may be a tad inconsistent so, fingers crossed, it will be delicious on the day that you visit. Here's a photo of their gumbo presentation.






















Babin's Seafood Katy. I was torn on whether to give this a "favorite" listing or a "good enough" listing. It's part of the Landy's chain of restaurants. I'm pretty sure it is a jar roux. But it was a nice, dark roux. And the shrimp were succulent, though not as impressive as, say, Bayou City Seafood. In a pinch, I'd go back for the gumbo. 

Rainbow Lodge. I found the duck and andouille gumbo to be very tasty and I would order it again.


"Good Enough Gumbo" (Because sometime good enough is good enough)

Abe's Cajun Market in Clear Lake.  A salty gumbo which would normally be an instant deal breaker. But I really like this gumbo. Even with its saltiness, it has a nice amount of sausage and chicken and a pretty good flavor profile.

BB's. A very meh gumbo, but still a good enough one if one isn't obsessed with finding the best.

Brennan's. Again, a gumbo with no soul. Kind of bland. Kind of boring. I wouldn't order it again. But not bad, so I put it in this "good enough" column.

A friend said good things about the Jason's Deli gumbo (prepared at one location in their commissary). I tried it at two locations and found it tasty enough.

Crawfish Cafe in the Heights. And I think the original location is on Bellaire Blvd. Again, a perfectly acceptable gumbo. The place is rocking at night, due to the boiled crawfish or seafood that you order sauced to your particular tastes.

Crescent City Beignet on San Felipe. An "okay" gumbo with no soul to it.

Captain Benny's. A perfectly acceptable gumbo. 

Frank's Americana. It was a thicker gumbo than is my preference, but I liked the flavor. And the shrimp in it weren't over cooked.

Roux Pour. Various locations. A decent enough gumbo from a chain.

Joyce's. A perfectly acceptable gumbo.

Pier 6 in San Leon. Another "okay" gumbo. Smallish serving. Decent flavor. Included okra in the recipe. Included two oysters which was a plus. But they cooked the smallish shrimp in the gumbo instead of cooking them separately and adding to the hot broth just before serving. So the shrimp were tough and not very appealing.

House of Roux in Old Town Spring. Original Visit: "For me, this is about as good as it gets. I discovered that I like dark, thin roux broths, like what I had at Liuzza's by the Track in New Orleans. I like them more than the thicker, flour gravy rouxs. For me, House of Roux, along with Viola and Agnes, and Bayou City Seafood are my three favorite gumbos in the Houston area. 

Supreme Gumbo. It was a little  food truck on Southmore at Almeda. Now, it is a stand alone on Cavalcade. It can be an acceptable gumbo with a real Lousiana feel to it. Or it can be totally awful. Depending on the day. Caveat emptor.Update 2023: "We had some gumbo more recently that was “meh”. So caveat emptor. Was it just an "off" day? 


January 25, 2023

Puffy Crispy Tacos at Doña María on Navigation

 This Houston institution slipped by me. I’d never been. I knew that it was historically significant to the max. On previous attempts, it was always too crowded. “Next time”, I would say. But recently, having seen a photo of their puffy taco, I knew that it was a “must”.

Damn, that puffy taco plate was good. The rice and beans that accompanied it were great. As were the tacos. Crunchy. Not those softer, chewier, thick masa ones that SA is known for. A tad thicker than the ones at the (now closed) beloved Fiesta Loma Linda.

And, I saw that caldo de menudo is a daily feature. Not just on weekends.

This is a breakfast and lunch place. It closes at 2:00 pm.



























Adán Medrano, culinary historian and author of two superb books on the cuisine of Mexicano cuisine in Texas, wrote the following for The Houston Press, part of articles he did as he explored Mexican restaurants on Navigation. Here is a link to the Houston Press article:

The Houston Press - Adán Medrano

Both of Adán's books are available at the River Oaks Bookstore and also online from Amazon (support local businesses as your first priority though)




He wrote:

"Doña María Mexican Café serves the type of breakfast tacos that are at the heart of traditional Mexican American home cooking. The cafe is one in a six-cluster of restaurants on Navigation that reveal the original, indigenous culinary traditions of Houston. 


Taco choices include scrambled eggs with either chorizo, potato, chicharrón (bits of pork skin), or with country sausage, all of them cooked to order, à la minute. A delicious option for any of the tacos is to add pinto beans cooked in the traditional way, mashed and pan-roasted with very little oil, if any. As for me, I’m hopelessly in love with the straightforward combination of scrambled eggs and pinto beans, just a little salt. Why gild the lily? 

The menu offers full breakfast plates like the familiar and well-executed huevos rancheros and eggs a la Mexicana with diced fresh jalapeño, but also the lesser known machacado con huevo, this last one truly a core tradition. Machacado is made with meat that has been salted and air-dried, a technique employed for centuries in Texas, salt being central to Native American cooking. It was first employed because it was necessary for food preservation, but today it’s the flavor appeal that keeps the technique a constant one. 

My dad and most of his generation dried venison and also beef. He sliced it as thin as paper, cut it into large sheets (sábanas) then salted and air-dried it. To make machacado from these sheets, they are pounded on a mortar, crushed into strands, like thin threads. “Machacar” means to crush. Then the strands are scrambled with eggs, sometimes adding a trio of diced green chile, onions and tomato. The breakfast machado plate is served with traditional mashed pinto beans, cubed potatoes, and a side of tortillas. It’s a favorite of the regulars at Doña María and if you’ve never tried it, go ahead and step into the welcoming world of Texas Mexican cooking. 
Anna Hernandez is the owner of Doña María Mexican Café, along with her husband Juan, and they feature recipes that are traditional in Mexican American families. 
Photo by Adán Medrano 
“It’s a corner of culture,” says Anna Hernandez, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Juan. To Anna and Juan, culture means hospitality, the welcoming context that all home cooking has in common, in every part of the world. Dr. Alston Thoms, Professor of Anthropology at Texas A&M, explains that the Karankawa and Atakapa people who flourished in Houston for 2,000 years until the conquest were all groups of families. “The sense of family and community is decidedly indigenous,” he adds. At Doña María there’s a non-clubby family feeling to the small frame house that seats 50.

Doña María was founded in 1988 by María Piñeda (hence the restaurant name) and in 2005, Anna and Juan took over the business, keeping some of the recipes but replacing many with those of Anna’s family. Anna is from Houston and Juan is from Mercedes in the Rio Grande Valley, so their menu is 100 percent comida casera, home-cooking, of Texas Mexican American families.

Picadillo, ground beef with vegetables, potatoes, one of the iconic dishes of the Mexican food of Texas. 
Photo by Adán Medrano 

Picadillo and fideo are prime examples of this unique cuisine. Picadillo is ground beef stewed with onions, carrots, bell pepper, potatoes, and seasoned with a trinity of spices unique to Texas Mexican cooking, the combination of garlic, black pepper and cumin. Order that, and I’m back home, with mom and impish siblings.
Fideo is an iconic dish of Texas Mexican cooking, pan roasted vermicelli in a seasoned tomato broth. Doña María adds a slice of poached chicken breast. 
Photo by Adán Medrano 
The production secret for delivering such good-tasting picadillo without fail is the expert kitchen staff that Anna hires. The sous-chef is Ever Ochoa. She is skilled in making mole and other sauces, and she heads the cooking line. “Es puro sabor casero,” Ever says, the flavor is pure home-cooking.

Sous Chef, Ever Ochoa, prepares the mole, sauces and heads up the production line in the kitchen. 
Photo by Adán Medrano 

Fideo is another dish that is iconic in the Mexican food of Texas. Vermicelli pasta is first pan-roasted to acquire color, then boiled with tomato, onion and seasonings. Chef Ochoa adds a large slice of chicken breast, and it’s a full, scrumptious meal. Like the picadillo, fideo is so traditional that it’s an indelible taste memory of the East End community. 

No truly Texas Mexican dish is complete without flour tortillas, the wheat culinary creation born in the Texas and Mexico region that extends along a band 150 miles north and 150 miles south of the Rio Grande, once just a river to the indigenous peoples, now a geopolitical border. You know it’s an expert tortilla when it balloons magnificently on the comal, griddle. 

Griselda Delgado Lamas makes them daily at Doña María, mixing and kneading the dough before shaping small balls that she rolls out and cooks. She’ll make about 300 each day, and sometimes 500 for a big catering job. Griselda has been making the Doña María tortillas already for 10 years. She’s fast, making them in the San Antonio and Rio Grande Valley style, laying them on the griddle for a few seconds, then turning them over and watching them puff up, soft and lithesome. Simply delicious.

Traditional Texas Mexican tortillas puff up on the griddle. Master tortilla maker, Griselda Delgado Ochoa, flips them effortlessly, lightly. 
Photo by Adán Medrano 
Hours are from 7 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. on weekdays and 7:30 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. on weekends. The restaurant is closed on Mondays. On weekends, diners leisurely congregate in conversation outside the door, their names on a waiting list. The combination of hospitality and traditional Texas Mexican home-cooking is the formula for success.

The Marigold Cafe off of 290 - Burgers! - A John Nechman Discovery

 John writes: "Many thanks to my beautiful friend Belize Love (Raimey), who will one day again be preparing her incredible Belizean dishes for Houstonians if my wishes are granted. Raimey suggested I try sweet little The Marigold Cafe (7676 Hillmont), located within an office building that looks non-descript from the outside but is of a very unique design inside. The cafe is run by a wife/husband team, and the dishes feature a delightful Caribbean flair, from the spices used on the fries (frozen, but they are sensational with the spices coating them), the curry in several of the dishes, and offerings such as "Island Spice" pancakes and waffles made with cinnamon and nutmeg.

I went with an excellent bacon cheese burger, cooked fresh to order, and a heaping side of those wonderful spiced fries. The highlight of the meal was the green power smoothie, a potent blend of kale, spinach, mango, banana, pineapple, and ginger. I definitely felt invigorated after that one!
If you are up on the NW side of town, exit off 290 at Hollister, go south to Hillmont, then hang a left till you see this building. This hard-working, kind couple will make you glad you did. "



Fat Boy Pizza - From New Orleans, Now Houston - A John Nechman Discovery

John writes:

" A New Orleans-based pizza chain named after my own heart (or body), Fat Boy’s Pizza, just opened its first of what are expected to be many Texas outposts way out in Richmond (10445 W. Grand Parkway S.). We joined the throngs of (mostly) fat H-Towners scarfing down what are claimed to be the world’s biggest slices.
First things first: we’ve been to and love a San Antonio place called Big Lou’s that serves a 42” monster that dwarfs Fat Boy’s largest pie, a measly 30”. However, Fat Boy’s, whose motto is “Size Matters,” goes one further with the dreaded “2 Foot Challenge.” Eat a 2 foot slice in 7 minutes or less and receive a FB T-shirt and $20 gift card. Lipitor injections are not included, and if you manage to beat Joey Chestnut’s record of 39 seconds, you win $10K. Those who dare are regally introduced to the rest of the diners, a timer begins (with staff exuberantly shouting out how many minutes/seconds remain), and on cue booms a relentless, pounding onslaught of high-decibel rock--think every ACDC anthem you’ve ever heard, with Europe’s “The Final Countdown” filling the final minute, and Queen’s “Another One Bites the Dust” for the epilogue. It’s actually kind of fun, and no one we saw came close to winning a coveted t-shirt/gift certificate, much less challenging Chestnut’s record.
We fought off the urges for fame and went instead with a plenty big 16” Fat Boy Supreme, featuring all that you’d usually find on a supreme pizza. It was excellent. A pizza sort of on the level of a Fuddrucker’s burger; i.e., a chain that serves a surprisingly delightful product that may not be the best, but it’s so good that better versions are sensational. The toppings are superb though the crust is a little on the dry side. We added some decent honey garlic wings to the order as well.
Also impressive are frozen daiquiris and a full bar. But bring plenty of $$$—this place is pricey! Our pizza was $27.00, and 6 tiny wings were $10.99. Throw on a couple daiquiris, and you’re well north of $50.00, even before a tip for the hard-working staff. "








Bò Né Houston - Vietnamese - A John Nechman Discovery

 John writes:

"When Richi and I are deciding where to go stuff our faces on weekend mornings, the incredible Vietnamese dish bò né (steak and eggs with so much more) is usually part of the discussion. We recently found what so far is our favorite bò né in Houston, at the appropriately named Bò Né Houston (11694 Bellaire). We've been to at least a couple other spots with the same name, but this newest one on Westheimer is the one we like the most so far.

I doubt we’ve tried every bò né in town, but I think we’ve tried most of them. The best versions start with a leafy green salad usually doused in a sesame oil-based dressing, along with a basket of fresh-from-the-oven French baguettes and a ramekin of rich liver pâté and butter to be used as a spread on that heavenly bread. I don’t know where the Vietnamese places in town source their butter, but it is often the sort of stuff you would expect Heidi and her family up in the Swiss Alps to be spreading on their braided rolls every morning. Next arrives a (very important) cow-shaped sizzling platter filled with 2 still yolky sunny-side up eggs and chunks of tender ribeye sauteed in what might be slightly sweet oyster sauce, teriyaki sauce, soy sauce, hoisin sauce, or a combination of all of the above, with grilled white and/or green onions. Those are the basics, though I’ve seen some places throw on some sliced tomatoes and cucumbers for color or variety.
At Bò Né Houston, you can go veg or get fancy or just gluttonous by ordering yours “blanketed under a mushroom layer” or sided with a hot dog, sausage, and a meat ball, or with sizzling tofu instead of meat. We were ecstatic with our basic “Original” version. This place absolutely nails all the basics.
We also loved the adorable and welcoming staff—they make the experience all the better. "







Bun Slut Food Truck - Galleria - A John Nechman Discovery

 John writes:

"Sometimes, you hear a name, and it sort of calls out to you. So it was with the burger trailer at the Galleria Food Truck Park off Chimney Rock just south of Westheimer (2829 Chimney Rock) called BunSlut.

Houston is not known for loads of late night offerings, but at this park, until 4:30 am, you can find spicy chicken sandwiches (Mico got its start here), shawarma tacos, stuffed turkey legs, boudain egg rolls, and Bun Slut's "Slutty Melt," a smash burger served patty melt-style with cheese, minced grilled onions, pickles, and a delightful concoction of what I assume includes mayo and sriracha called "slut sauce." You can add on some "slutty fries" (which are basically covered with a blended "Sluttymelt") and a milk shake (I enjoyed my Fruity Pebbles milkshake).
I felt a little naughty though not at all ashamed after this late night slutfest of food. "




January 22, 2023

Galveston

 Trip Advisor Travel Forum for Galveston. Here is some great information that I pulled from a Trip Advisor Forum for Galveston. The links are embedded so you will need to do a copy and paste to grab them. Created by Trip Advisor destination expert "TexasGal"

is very small island and very unique in what it has to offer tourists who come for one day or a week. That said it does require some homework on internet IMO.

Adjacent to The Port is the famous Strand downtown. It is blocks of shops, restaurants, art galleries, museums, boutiques and more. It is a delight for cruise patrons to experience before or after their cruise.

The Strand has two hotels. 

Tremont and Harbor House

I have stayed at Harbor House and it was very nice stay. That said, The Tremont is a highrise hotel with a gorgeous rooftop bar and a little more upscale.

Here are 3 websites for visitors and they will give you great info:

http://www.downtowngalveston.org/index.html

https://galvestonislandguide.com

https://www.galveston.com/visitorscenter/

Galveston Trolley and Bus System:

https://www.galvestontrolley.com

Video of Strand. There are many more if you do a search: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0dqAaS4bPE

FYI, there are webcams positioned on popular beaches, The Strand, Moody Gardens, Seawall Blvd. and the Port. They show what is happening 24 hours a day. You can even watch the cruiseships arrive and depart on these cams

Webcams: https://www.visitgalveston.com/webcams/north-galveston-webcam/

The Island has a trolley and here is their link:

Island Trolley Service: https://www.galvestontrolley.com

I am a huge fan of The Strand and all it's shops, museums, art galleries and eateries. It has it's own webpage. Google the Museums that are in The Strand. Great for families!

Walking tour video of The Strand: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0dqAaS4bPE

A must visit is a candy and ice cream shop called LaKing's Confectionery and it opened in 1920. For seafood I like Katie's. There are also a couple of popular restaurants for gumbo fans in The Strand.

Two recommendations when you go out onto the street parallel to the beach called Seawall Blvd. There is a huge gift shop called Murdochs that is on pillars out over the water. 

Then across Seawall Blvd. from Murdochs is Galveston's grand, elegant Hotel Galvez. I hope you will take the time to walk over and view the interior or have lunch (?). It is like being in the Great Gatsby movie !!!!!!

Grand Galvez Hotel: https://www.grandgalvez.com

Murdochs Gift Shop on Seawall Blvd.: https://galvestonislandguide.com/murdochs-galvestons-oldest-and-best-loved-gift-shop/

Food on Seawall Blvd.:

The Spot is casual and good shrimp poboys with seating on large deck overlooking ocean.

Mario's, I hope, still has their weekday Italian Food buffet (?)

Gaido's is upscale seafood that opened in 1911

Do a search on Moody Gardens events and Schlitterbahn Waterpark on site.

IMO, The Galveston Duck Tour is a must. See their webpage and YouTube videos.

Also, for families is the Pleasure Pier complex near Murdocks on Seawall Blvd. (See Videos)

The last recommendation I have is in The Strand. It is a candy and ice cream shop called LaKing's Confectionery and it opened in 1920. A must visit.

Enjoy!


Mexican - Time Machine Tex-Mex (Mexican Food, Circa 1960's Era)

This year, I decided to start exploring Houston, in hopes of locating Tex-Mex restaurants that were keeping the recipes that I remember from my youth alive.

Anyone who has seen the movie, Ratatouille, knows the famous scene where the dish of ratatouille transports for restaurant critic back to his childhood.

Tex-Mex can have the same effect on me. Truthfully, there are a lot of things to not like about the mess that we call the combination dinner. Too much salt. Too much grease. No vegetables to speak of. Artery clogging cheese and meat. And I have joked that if an alien was dropped into Texas and served up a big old mess of Tex-Mex, he might remark, "What the heck is this on my plate?"

But for those of us who grew up here, Tex-Mex seems very right and we love it. As a kid, my family ate at an El Patio on Telephone at Park Place at least twice a week.

In the eighties, new menu items started appearing and certainly there are now many restaurants that offer fare more typical of the food of northern Mexico and other regions.  For example, the menu at the charming Morales on 76th Street could as easily be the menu of a small comedor (eatery) in Monterrey, Mexico.

With my recent very positive experience with what I fondly call Retro Tex-Mex at Spanish Village on Almeda (established 1953), I thought that I would put together a list of favorite places that, if one could time travel back to 1960's Houston, these would be the combination plates that one might be served.

Now, I know that my suggestions are going to generate a lot of "why did you choose that place and not this place" comments in the comments section. Well, this is not an exclusive list. It's a starting point for your explorations around town. Some you will probably recognize. Others may be off your radar and new to you. Feel free to add your own suggestions in the comments section.

And so, here begins my list, a list of restaurants where that combo plate will have frijoles refritos, arroz a la Mexican, a flour/oil/chili powder "chili" gravy to cover the enchiladas and tamales. The tortillas for the enchiladas will have been dipped in hot out to soften and then stacked until ready to use. The rice will be slightly red from tomatoes, seasoned with cumin and hopefully, light and fluffy. The beans may be watery or slightly thick and probably made with pinto beans. If you are lucky, the crispy taco shell will be puffy and inflated like a balloon (Los Tios is the only place that I know of that still do these...but, I am talking with Spanish Village to see if they might be interested in figuring out the recipe with me; I'm pretty sure that it is critical to use yellow corn nixtamal as, when I tried to make them with white corn nixtamal, they absorbed too much oil and got soft after a few minutes).

Here is a link to this article, as originally written for and published in Phaedra Cook's Houston Food Finders:

Houston Food Finder - Houston Retro Tex-Mex Link


Doña María Mexican Restaurant
2601 Navigation Boulevard
First, let me direct you to The Houston Press. Do a search for Adan Medrano. He wrote six articles on the cluster of Mexican restaurants on Navigation (and it is excellent)

I recently discovered Doña María, a historically significant Houston instittution, that, I in my cluelessnes, had never visited in all my years here. Mainly, because everytime that I went, it was too crowded. But on this occasion, inclement weather made it possible to visit and find a table. And in so doing, I fell in love with their rice, beans and riff on puffy tacos.

Damn, that puffy taco plate was good. The rice and beans that accompanied it were great. As were the tacos. Crunchy. Not those softer, chewier, thick masa ones that SA is known for. A tad thicker than the ones at the (now closed) beloved Fiesta Loma Linda.

And, I saw that caldo de menudo is a daily feature. Not just on weekends.

This is a breakfast and lunch place. It closes at 2:00 pm.
































El Toro Mexican Restaurants
Baytown (3 locations) and Various Locations in La Porte, Lake Jackson and other cities

Currently, one of my top 3 favorites, having recently dined at the Garth Road location in Baytown. Founded circa 1960 by Eugenio Ybarra, the food is classic Tex-Mex. And the service is spectacularly good. The oldest location on Bayway Drive still has these great, retro 60's era booths. Try the Numero Uno on the lunch menu.










Las Hadas
2428 Center Street, Deer Park, Texas

I really liked, and recommend you order the biggest combination plate on the menu in order to sample a little bit of everything. Although the rice wasn't as light and fluffy as I would like it to be, I thought the frijoles refritos were really good. The beef (picadillo) in the taco tasted cleaner and less greasy than in a lot of places. And the combo plate has real chile con carne gravy instead of the typical chili gravy.
































Spanish Village Restaurant (Now Closed)
4720 Almeda Road
http://www.spanishvillagetx.com

With new ownership, and a new ownership, with the classic recipes prepared well, and with the closing of Fiesta Loma Linda, Spanish Village is my default go-to Mexican restaurant in Houston. As of March 2022, they have changed the way they make sauces. Now made in small batches. The larger batch prep of the past, that often led to burned tasting chili gravy, burned taco shells, burned tortilla chips, has been fixed with the newest management. One can see, from the menu, that there is a more serious focus on fajitas in place of the traditional combination plates. Birria, shrimp tacos and caldo de camarón have been added to the menu. It's funny but, what I really look forward to eating here isn't necessarily the combination plate but (imho) their most delicious shrimp soup (see photo)


















































La Plaza
1803 Bingle Road

Established in 1964 and serving classic Tex-Mex. A bowl of chile con queso arrives at your table with the menu. Go for the combination plate #1.


































El Penjamo
6110 Lyons Avenue

My father's first store, a little 5 & 10 Variety Store, was on Lyons Avenue and my earliest memories are of this area in the 50's. On a recent visit, I discovered three Mexican restaurants along the street. El Penjamo has a menu featuring the dishes from Northern Mexico and the carne guisada plate looked really good. However, I was here for the Tex-Mex offering and ordered the #1 which was pretty amazing. Check out the color of the cheeses. Looks like they used one of those nacho cheeses for the queso and standard cheddar for the enchiladas. The meal begins with a small bean and fideo soup.































El Potosino
Galena Park, Texas) on Clinton Drive

The restaurant was established in 1970 and the recipes are the same as then so we are talking about a time machine, time warp of about 50 years. Classic old school Tex-Mex.

























Don Key Mexican Restaurant
5010 Spencer Highway, Pasadena
Established in 1984. I came across this time warp treasure via their billboard on Old Galveston Road that I noticed one day when driving back into Houston.






























































Los Tios (Beechnut)
4840 Beechnut Street
www.lostiosrestaurant.com

Los Tios is a Houston institution and currently the only place that still make the puffy and crispy taco that was once very typical of Houston Tex-Mex. This location on Beechnut is a favorite.





















Don Teo's (Now Closed)
2026 W. 34th Street
http://www.donteos.com

The story of Don Teo's is pretty interesting. This location was one of the original Monterey Houses in Houston, this one franchised to Don Covington. Now in his 80's, he still comes by for Tex-Mex every week. The Martinez family that own it now, Don Teo and his son, Teo Jr., worked for decades for the Monterey House chain. Junior began as a kid and worked his way through the various stations of a restaurant. He is an absolute delight to chat with and we recommend to be sure to say "Hi" when you visit.





El Paraiso (on Fairview in Montrose) ( Possibly Closed Now)
2320 Crocker Street

El Paraiso, too, prepares class Tex-Mex, and also offers house made moles and a few northern Mexico regional dishes.





















Don Carlos (on 76th Street)
416 76th Street
www.doncarlosrestaurants.com

On the east side of town, what is becoming known as Eado, though, we prefer the name Canaviburg,
Don Carlos has a long history of serving Tex-Mex.
























Mi Sombrero
3401 N. Shepherd at 34th Street
www.misombrero.com

Mi Sombrero offers classic Tex-Mex dishes and like Don Teo, serves the Garden Oaks and Shepherd/Ella area of Houston. For my taste, a little on the salty side. But hey, it's Tex-Mex.


























Fiesta Loma Linda - (Now Closed)
2111 Telephone Road
http://www.fiestalomalinda.com

(We are sad to advise that, after 62 years, Fiesta Loma Linda closed in May of 2018):
Our favorite because of the classic, Houston style puffy tacos that they continue to make and make well. Originally a classic diner, the owners friendship with the owners of the now long gone Loma Linda Restaurant by Palms Center, follow the original Loma Linda recipes. 





























Lopez Mexican Restaurant
11606 Wilcrest Drive
www.vivalopez.com

Another historically significant, classic Tex-Mex institution. This one serves the Stafford, Hwy 59 at Wilcrest Houston area.





















Monterey House (Beaumont, Texas)
1109 S 11th Street, Beaumont, Texas
www.monteryhousebmt.com

OMG. The holy grail. The mecca for lovers of classic, retro Tex-Mex. The franchisee bought the rights to the recipes of the original Monterey House chain in the 60's and continues to duplicate the original recipes. A must stop for anyone travelling east on Highway 10 through Beaumont. For more details, please see this link:
Monterey House - Beaumont






















Larry's (Richmond, Texas)
116 E Highway 90A, Richmond

Larry Guerrero worked for Felix Tijerina back in the day, and, when he expressed interest in creating his own Mexican restaurant, Mr. Tijerina provided assistance. Ninfa Laurenzo also offered help in exchange for his buying his masa products from their family tortilleria off of Navigation.
Be sure to pick up a Larry's t-shirt when you visit. It is one of the coolest looking t-shirts in Texas.






















La Hacienda (Memorial)
14759 Memorial Drive
www.lahaciendamemorial.com

If you grew up in the Memorial area, your family probably went to "La-Ha" at least once a week. It is a Tex-Mex institution for Memorialites.

























Old Mexico (Northside)
3306 Hopper Road

This is about as old school as you can get. Red tortillas for the enchiladas, salsa and queso served with chips, classic rice and beans. Yep. You will want to get the enchilada plate here. Note: there isn't a sign outside so you may actually pass by Old Mexico the first time that you try to find it.
























A Gastro Obscura Article from 2016 on the taco:

The Texan Who Invented Chili Powder Also Accidentally Created the American Taco

BY DAN NOSOWITZ JANUARY 14, 2016

An American hard shell taco. (Photo: Luca Nebuloni/flickr)
For many Americans, a taco looks like this: a U-shaped deep-fried corn tortilla shell filled with seasoned ground beef, shredded iceberg lettuce, cheddar cheese, and maybe salsa or chopped tomatoes. It’s emoji-level recognizable, an ’80s and ’90s childhood staple. But the taco’s detractors have been taking aim in recent times. “A few years back, like watching a favorite childhood movie and noticing how terrible it really is, I finally realized that hard taco shells are a sham,” wrote Serious Eats food writer J. Kenji López-Alt in a 2011 post reminiscing about the less-than-stellar taco nights of his childhood. Anthony Bourdain has repeatedly lashed out at Taco Bell and Tex-Mex for sullying the true Mexican taco with dirty American ingredients. 
Like General Tso’s chicken or a meatball parm sandwich, it seems logical that the American taco has no real relationship to its original culture. A carnitas taco served on a paper plate in Mexico City—that’s authentic. A ground beef taco served by a Taco Bell in Indianapolis, well, that’s something else. Something worse.
But where did the American taco really come from? And what does it say about us?

First of all, it’s a mistake to believe that the iconic hard shell taco is something that clueless white people invented. “Both Americans and Mexicans would love to believe that the hard-shell taco was a travesty of an invention by clueless gabachos. But that’s simply not the case,” says Gustavo Arellano, perhaps America’s foremost scholar on the taco. Arellano is the writer behind the advice column “Ask A Mexican,” the author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America, and also the editor of the OC Weekly newspaper in his native Orange County, California.
“Mexicans have been eating what we now call tacos since time immemorial,” says Arellano. “The idea of stuffing something into a tortilla—we’ve been doing that since there were tortillas, so we’re talking thousands of years ago.” But Mexican cuisine is incredibly regional, being almost as varied in climate and geography as the U.S., from deserts in the north to the tropics in the south, the Sierra Madre mountain range in the west to central valleys. And Mexican cuisine is a product of varied influences the same way American cuisine is; the many different Indian populations; the Spanish conquest; waves of immigrants from North, South, and (especially recently) Central America; French, German, and Jewish immigrants from Europe during World War II; Lebanese and other Arab immigrants who brought meat-on-a-spit traditions.
All of these blended together and were filtered through the ingredients that people had at hand. There are old ways of doing things, and newer ways. But they’re all Mexican, and for Arellano, “good” and “bad” are largely unrelated to “old” and “new.” The term “authentic” is entirely meaningless.
Taco shells. (Photo: Helen Penjam/flickr)
Tacos, says Arellano, were until the 1800s generally more popular in central and southern Mexico, where more common fillings would be pork, chicken, seafood, or vegetables. But the taco’s popularity increased in the 19th century in the north, and northern Mexicans had a different meat of choice. “All of northern Mexico is beef country,” says Arellano. “Sonora, Baja California, Nuevo Leon, Chihuahua, that’s where beef is king.” That was as true north of the border as south. “Putting a whole bunch of ground beef on a flour tortilla is a cowboy tradition,” says Robb Walsh, a Galveston-based food writer and authority on all things Texas, from barbecue to Tex-Mex. (He also, coincidentally, went to the same elementary school as Arellano before moving back to Texas.)
There are a few different types of beef tacos; carne asada, grilled hunks of beef, is most common, but lengua, tongue, along with a few other offal cuts especially from around the cow’s head are also easy to find. Ground beef, though, of the type you’d find in Taco Bell? That would be most recognizable in northern Mexico as picadillo.
Picadillo is a dish consisting primarily of minced or ground meat and is found in pretty much every country Spain ever had a hand in, from Mexico to Cuba to the Philippines. It varies from country to country and region to region; in Caribbean cuisines, especially Cuban, Dominican, and Puerto Rican, it’s often cooked with raisins and olives and served with rice. In Mexico it varies in form, sometimes served as a soup, sometimes cooked with less liquid with potatoes (sort of like a hash), and sometimes even drier and less saucy and served in a taco.
Crispy tacos, too, exist perfectly authentically, whatever that means, in Mexico, and have for quite a long time. Sometimes they’re called tacos dorados, or golden tacos, and if the taco is first rolled into a cigar shape before frying can be called a taquito or sometimes a flauta, depending on size or just local terminology. “They’re often made with potatoes and eaten during lent,” says Arellano. The main differences between tacos dorados and a Taco Bell taco is that the filling may be slightly different, and will be fried to order (and sometimes fried whole) rather than placed in a pre-fried shell. But really, they’re not all that different.
Fajitias in a packet: Old El Paso mix on sale. (Photo: Quinn Dombrowski/flickr)
In 1914, the recipe widely cited as the earliest known recipe for tacos was published, by Bertha Haffner-Ginger in a book called California Mexican-Spanish Cookbook. Her recipe describes the taco as follows:
“Made by putting chopped cooked beef and chile sauce in tortilla made of meal and flour; folded, edges sealed together with egg; fried in deep fat, chile sauce served over it.”
This would not easily recognizable as a taco today; I think most would identify this dish as an empanada. But the parts are all there, setting the stage for Old El Paso and Taco Bell.

The story of most American adaptation of new dishes in the 19th and 20th centuries relies on two processes: preservation and mass production.
In the late 19th century, the Mexican-influenced dish of choice in the U.S. was chili con carne, not the taco. In Mexico, dried chile peppers are and have always been a major part of the cuisine, but are sold whole, to be toasted and rehydrated or otherwise prepared as the cook desires. The chief innovation that made the American taco possible was chili powder, a store-bought item not found in Mexico.
An 1894 advertisement for chili powder. (Photo: Internet Archive/flickr)
Chili powder was first sold in 1894 by its inventor, Texan-by-way-of-Germany Willie Gebhardt, for use in chili. “What people don’t seem to appreciate is that getting ingredients back then was not as easy as it is today,” says Arellano. “Today you go to your local Latino supermarket and you can get whatever. Back then, you had to improvise.” Gebhardt was unable to find the chile peppers he wanted year-round, and so bought a huge stockpile of the peppers, which were probably ancho, and ran them through a meat grinder a few times to pulverize them. He later began selling the powder already made—a huge convenience for anyone wanting to make the then-trendy chili. (German immigrants in Texas also tended to wrap their own sausages in tortillas, an early Mexican fusion cuisine, as Arellano told SF Weekly.)
The other ingredients—cumin powder, tomatoes, iceberg lettuce, ground beef—have connections to parts of northern Mexico, but to suss them out would be to ignore the real reason they were used: that’s what was readily available in America at the time. Cheddar cheese is hardly ever found in Mexico, but in the U.S., it’s the second-most-popular variety, after mozzarella. And it was already being used often in Texas, especially in concert with ground beef, in the hamburger. So, sure, cheddar cheese. That’s what’s here, why not?
The ultimate American expression of the taco: Taco Bell. (Photo: Mike Mozart/flickr)
The next major step in the development of the American taco was fast food. “Glen Bell, of Taco Bell fame, he got the idea for Taco Bell after watching the McDonald brothers get insanely rich in San Bernardino, California,” says Arellano. Bell had a hamburger and hot dog stand right across the street from a popular Mexican restaurant, and by 1951 he had reverse-engineered the taco and began selling it, including the tacos dorados popular in southern California. But, inspired by the McDonald’s ideas of interchangeable parts made in advance, Bell came up with a new idea. “Glen Bell is credited as coming up with the pre-formed taco shell,” says Walsh. And that turned out to be a turning point for the fast-food industry.
Arellano doesn’t think there’s much more to the comparison of hamburgers and tacos than that, but I can’t help seeing massive similarities between the two. These are both ground meat-based dishes served in starch out of drive-thru fast food places, making them perfect for on-the-go eating. They’re both commonly served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and cheese. They’re constructed the same way; all that needs to be done is to cook the meat and assemble everything else in the right order. “Picadillo has been part of Mexican cooking forever,” says Walsh. “I’m sure that is an older tradition than Sloppy Joes.” That’s true, and explains the origins of the food, but for an American in 1965 who wants to try ethnic food, the roots of the dish wouldn’t be clear at all. What I think they’d see is basically a hamburger in a different, more fun form. Arellano disagrees.
“Intellectuals have always underestimated Americans when it comes to Mexican food,” says Arellano. But Mexican food remains in the pantheon of foreign foodstuffs that by now are just…American food, along with elements of Italian and Chinese cuisines. “Americans have always sought out what they thought in that moment to be authentic Mexican food,” says Arellano, whether that was chili con carne in the 1880s, tamales in the 1930s, hard-shell beef tacos in the 1960s, or Mission-style burritos in the 2010s. He sees the American love of new foods, including Mexican, as an earnest attempt to explore and try new things—it’s just that, sometimes, only certain elements of those new foods are available.
Taco Bell’s breakfast menu. (Photo: Mike Mozart/flickr)
Regardless, the American taco became unavoidable by the 1960s: you could get it at a fast-food joint, or you could buy a kit from brands like Old El Paso or Ashley’s. These kits would include seasoning packets, sometimes ground beef, the tortillas (which disturbingly were sometimes sold in cans), and a mold so you could fry the shells in place. This spoke to 1950s and 1960s Americans: the taco dinner was cheap, sort of exotic but sort of familiar, and everything was basically premade.
Arellano recommends taking the taco, American and Mexican, for what it is, and not what those Arellano calls “authentistas” would like it to be. “Mexicans and Americans have romanticized Mexican food as being somehow more true and pure than American food,” he says. “And Mexican food is really the original mongrel cuisine. And that’s what makes it so delicious.” Really, there’s no part of the American taco that would preclude it from being tasty—nobody says you have to use a premade seasoning packet of stale, bland spices, or a brittle, prepackaged taco shell. Giving as little care to basically anything as Americans often do to the taco will result in lousy food, whether it’s Sloppy Joes or boeuf bourguignon.
In other words: get off the hard-shell taco’s back.